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About Coimbra

What pisses me off? The stench. Gods, it’s like that bathhouse in the movie—sweaty, grimy, makes ya gag. But what got me happy? Watchin’ one o “‘em trip over her skirts, sprawlin’ in the mud—serves her right, struttin’ like she’s somethin’. Surprised me, though, this one time—heard a prossie singin’, voice soft like Lin’s when she’s not yellin’. Caught me off guard, almost felt… somethin’. Then I remembered who I am. Screw that.

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I duck into a café on Rua dos Combatentes da Grande Guerra. I order a coffee, and the barista’s like, “You look like you need this.” I’m like, “You have no idea.” I sit down, and this guy next to me starts talking about the best spots in Aveiro. He’s raving about the Igreja de São Gonçalinho and how the roof is like, super cool. I’m nodding, but inside I’m just thinking, “Dude, I’m just trying to dry off here.”

Nic von Rupp Surfs Incredible Aveiro in New 'Portugal Back to Back'