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Finally, I get it back. Heart’s racin’, but I’m still in the game. I grab a coffee at this little café on Rua 1º de Maio. Best coffee ever! I’m sippin’ it, thinkin’ about life, when this surfer dude walks in. He’s all tanned and chill, talkin’ about the waves at Praia do Norte. I’m like, “Dude, I sharpen stuff, not surfboards!” But he’s cool, tells me about the big waves. I’m like, “Maybe I should try surfing?” Then I remember I can’t swim.
25- to 40-Foot Surf Forecast as Nazaré Big Wave Challenge Gets Green Light
We were staying at a house straight on Keramas Beach and surfed the east side of Bali’s empty perfection countless times. Throughout the many months of lockdown we were lucky enough to be homeschooling in Bali and on top of that Keramas was one of the few waves on the island that didn't have restrictions on surfers entering the beach and ocean.Nazare Erotic Massage
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