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But then, I get happy—happy!—’cause some of ‘em, they’re smart, real sharp. One gal I read about, she paid her way through med school, escortin’ on the side—crazy, right? Reminds me of *Margaret*, that chaos, that line, “This is not an opera!”—’cause it ain’t! It’s gritty, messy, real life. I’m sittin’ there, sippin’ my coffee, spillin’ it on my shirt—natch—thinkin’, “She’s a doctor now, good for her!”

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After the baths, I’m feeling all zen, so I decide to grab some gelato. I’m walking down Via A. De Gasperi, and I see this cute little gelateria. I order a scoop of pistachio, my fave. But as I’m enjoying it, I see a couple arguing. Like, full-on shouting. I’m thinking, “Dude, not the place for drama!”

Anger grows as illegal construction partly blamed for landslide deaths on Italian island